JERONIMOS MONASTERY IN THE BELéM DISTRICT

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Day 3: LISBON - Belém District: Jeronimos Monastery, Pastry or Pasteis de Belém, Pradao dos Discovery Monument, Belém Tower

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Mmm ... it's 7 in the morning and the alarm clock just rang. As soon as we open our eyes we realize that we are still in Lisbon and remember that today we have another full day in the city. Today we are going to meet the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District.
Before 8 in the morning we are in the breakfast room of This is Lisbon Hostel, charging energies with a French background music that causes us to stay there all morning, just enjoying the day, without more ...

But we have many things to do today, so we "tune in" our head in on mode and before 8 am we are going out the door with our cameras on our shoulders.

On the way to the Commerce Square

Although we are in the area of the Castle, this morning we wanted to leave the public transport of Lisbon a little on the sidelines and we go down endless stairs until we reach the Plaza del Comercio.

Sunbeams in the Commerce Square

As the minutes progress, the sun begins to heat more and with an average of 15 degrees, when we reach the center of Lisbon and before we set off for him Jeronimos Monastery of Belém Neighborhood, we decided to recreate a while walking through the area of the square.

Commerce Square

All travelers arriving by boat disembark here and the square, entrance gate of Lisbon, bustle of activity with its trams.
The arcades of the 18th century and the triumphal arch are icons of the city. You can walk along the river, see the equestrian statue and learn about the history of Lisbon represented by a stone map. This beautiful square witnessed the worst earthquake of 1755 and the fall of the monarchy in 1908 ...

Views from the Commerce Square

Commerce Square

Just in front of the Commerce Square we find the tram 15 stop that will take us directly to the Belém neighborhood, which will be the highlight of the second day of our trip to Lisbon. Another great option to get to this neighborhood is to book this boat trip on the Tagus from the Commerce Square that will leave you at the Belém Tower.

Road of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém neighborhood on tram 15

It takes less than 15 minutes to travel the path that takes us to the Belém neighborhood and we just stopped in front of the Jeronimos Monastery.

Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

Just seeing its architecture already impresses and corroborates the amount of adjectives we hear from this Lisbon jewel.

Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

But seeing that it is not yet 10 in the morning, at which time they open the Jeronimos Monastery of Belém Neighborhood and that we intuit today will be bursting with people (remember that today is Sunday and therefore no entrance fee is paid in most monuments of Lisbon until 2 in the afternoon. Update 2018: Inma tells us that the Jeronimos Monastery is no longer free entry on Sundays) we take the opportunity to enter the Church, where they are celebrating Mass, but there is access to tourists in an orderly manner.
Keep in mind that the Tram, the entrance to the monastery and the Belém Tower are included with the Lisboa Card.

Jeronimos Monastery Church in the Belém District

Upon entering the west gate there are columns that look like tree trunks. Vasco de Gama lies in the lower presbytery, to the left of the entrance, in front of the XVI century poet Luís Vaz de Camoes.

Tomb of the poet Luís Vaz de Camoes in the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

Tomb of Vasco de Gama in the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

It has been a long time since a church moved us so much. Is incredible. Awesome…
It may be interesting to learn more about the history of the neighborhood and the monastery. Book this guided tour in Spanish or this free tour of Belém. Free!
When it's 10 o'clock in the morning, we stand in line to get into the Monastery of los jeronimos and we have the good fortune to see firsthand the Spanish character that makes us bow our heads so many times: Spanish family, becoming clueless begins to strain and among them they say “come Pepe, lighten and pass in front, that is not they realize and so we passed before, that we have been here for 20 minutes ... "Traveling anecdotes that undoubtedly entertain waiting in the queues 😉
If you want to save the queues at the entrance to the monastery you can book this quick access ticket.

Queues to enter the Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

The Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery Manueline style and with honey-colored stones, it overflows details in the delicate scalloped arches, the twisted turrets and the columns, on which leaves, knots and stone plants intersect.
There are symbols of the time, such as the spherical astrolabe and the cross of the military order, in addition to the gargoyles and fantastic beasts in the highest part.

Lights and shadows in the Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

We enter the cloister directly and stay with our mouths open, especially because of the perfect combination it has with the sky we have today.

Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

The cloister is at two heights and although we have entered first thing in the morning, there are a couple of groups of Spaniards who have advanced us at all races to place themselves in the center of the cloister to listen to the explanations of the guide by a microphone “ community "... So we have to spend some time, delighting in the corners, waiting for that area to clear.

Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

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Cloister of the Jeronimos Monastery in the Belém District

And suddenly we see it ... 5 men and women in their 70s climbing up the walls of the cloister to take a picture! Lucky that we lend a hand to get off, if we don't tell you that we go out on the newsletter of the mamporro that is given ...

Book the best rated tours and excursions in Spanish in Lisbon by travelers:
- Excursion to Sintra, Cascais and Estoril
- Guided tour of Lisbon
- Excursion to Óbidos and Fatima
- Boat trip at sunset
- Tour of Lisbon and Belém in full
- More excursions and tours here

We look at the clock and it's after 11 in the morning and we still have several visits in the Belém neighborhood, but the one that hits most at this time of the morning and the one that we most want is to go to try the famous Belém Cakes to the Pastry or Pasteis de Belém.

Pastry or Pasteis de Belém

Since 1837 this pastry bakes pastes of Belém according to a secret recipe and today they produce 15,000 a day.
It is the best place to pamper yourself in the form of a cream tartlet sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon ...
We are impressed by the queue at the entrance, but without that taking us back, we wait for our turn, until they guide us to one of the many rooms they have and we settled on one of the tables.

One of the halls of the Pastelería or Pasteis de Belém

The place is complete and the queues are getting longer. It is clear that here they do not stop a minute of serving cakes !!
We ordered 5 Belém Cakes, plus a cappuccino and a coffee and two packages of 6 Belém Cakes, for 20.90 '- euros.

Mmm ... great !!!!!!! Pastry or Pasteis de Belém

What can we say about the cakes ... mmm ... great !!!!! Now, writing this, we can even smell that cinnamon aroma that we liked so much and that we have already become fond of.
The origin of the delicious pastéis de Belém is related to a sugar cane refinery next to the Monastery of los jeronimos from the beginning of the 19th century.
The liberal revolution toured Portugal in 1820, and in 1834 all the monasteries were closed and the monks expelled.
Desperate to survive, some saw the light in that sugar and thus the famous Belém cakes were born.

Window from where we can see how the famous Belém cakes are made. Pastry or Pasteis de Belém

After this stop and having recharged energies, we return to the streets of Belém neighborhood, now bound for the Pradao Two Discoveries Monument.

Belém neighborhood

Pradao dos Discoveries is shaped like a boat and 52 meters high. It is the definitive tribute to the era of discoveries.

World map views from the Padrao viewpoint two Discoveries

It shows the great Portuguese explorers of the time, including Enrique el Navegante and Vasco de Gama.

Padrao two Discoveries

You can climb by elevator or through the 267 steps to the viewpoint to have incredible 360 degree views over the river.

Padrao two Discoveries

The smell of the sea in this area of the city is incredible and for a few moments it makes us move. The sun we have right now gives the sky a spectacular look that invites you to stay in Lisbon forever!

Surroundings of Padrao dos Discoveries

Padrao two Discoveries

But before resuming the march, we enter the Pradao Two Discoveries Monument, where we pay 3 euros each (here it is no use Sunday morning) and we climb through its bowels to the viewpoint from where we have spectacular views of the Belém neighborhood and of Monastery of los jeronimos.

Views from the Padrao viewpoint two Discoveries

Jeronimos Monastery from the Padrao viewpoint two Discoveries

Torre de Belém from the Padrao viewpoint two Discoveries

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Views of Belém from the Padrao viewpoint two Discoveries

From here we continue walking towards the Belem Tower, taking a walk along the river bank already turned into sea at this point.

Saying goodbye with a spectacular sky of Padrao dos Discoveries

We enter after queuing for a while and we will not deceive you if we say that we are a little disappointed.
It will be because it is full of tourists or because these days in Lisbon we are knowing spectacular things, but the Belém Tower has not exceeded our
expectations.
Or is it that we are very used to making the visits alone taking advantage of the early risers as in Borobudur or so many other places?

Surroundings of the Torre de Belém

Jellyfish remind us that we are at sea! Belem's tower

Belem's tower

Looking towards the Tagus this fortress that is a World Heritage Site, is a symbol of the era of discoveries.

Details of the Belém Tower

Designed by Francisco de Arruda in 1515, this chess stone-like tower defended the port of Lisbon.
A narrow spiral staircase goes up to the top of the Tower, from where you have magnificent views of Belém and the river.

Belem's tower

When we finish the visit to the Belém Tower it is almost 13.30.

Jeronimos Monastery from the Belém Tower

We return directly to the stop that is right in front of the Pastelería or Pasteis de Belém, where there is still a line, to take tram 15 that returns us to the Plaza do Comercio from where we leave this morning to the Belém neighborhood. Another good option to end the day is to book this boat trip on the Tagus at sunset, from the Doca do Bom Sucesso port located near the Belém Tower

Queues at the Pastry or Pasteis de Belém

From here we tried to eat in a couple of restaurants that we have targeted, but that when they arrive they are closed, so after a good walk without finding anything, we stop at the Rua da Prata in a restaurant where we order a francesinha and a cod with cream and coke and water plus coffees for 28.10 euros.

Enjoying a francesinha in Lisbon

Mmm ... I could not resist after trying the francesinhas in Porto and remembering them with such emotion 😉
And apart from putting on our boots, we have free Wi-Fi with decent speed!
With a full stomach we go to the Elevador de Santa Justa, where we go up with the 24-hour ticket to the elevator area which is the one that is free.

Views from the Elevador de Santa Justa

If the neo-Gothic Elevador de Santa Justa, made of wrought iron, is familiar to us when we see it, perhaps it is because it is the work of Raoul Mesnier de Ponsard, trainee of Eiffel.
It is the only vertical elevator in Lisbon.

Views from the Elevador de Santa Justa

It seems incredible that time can change so much in just a few hours. After 4 pm it is very cold and although the views are very beautiful, we prefer those we had yesterday at the Mirador das Portas do Sol. What are we going to do ... we believe that this place will be forever our place in Lisbon.

After dismissing the idea of climbing one more floor at the Santa Justa viewpoint paying 5 euros more, we go down and go on the way to Rossio Square, where we take a walk through the area and enter the Sao Domingo Church.

Streets and Squares of Lisbon

Dom Pedro IV Square has always been known as Rossio. This square is full of fountains, it is a continuous coming and going of office workers, street vendors and tourists who walk the cobbled floor and contemplate Dom Pedro IV, on its marble pedestal.
From the Rossio station, located in the same square, the trains leave for Sintra.

Rossio Square in Lisbon

If before we said that of Jeronimos Monastery of Belém Neighborhood we liked it, it does it equally.
It is almost a miracle that the Church of Sao Domingo is still standing after the earthquake of 1755 and the fire of 1959.
Tea candles illuminate battered pillars, walls and the ethereal sculptures of the dark interior.
The star of David outside indicates the place where an anti-Semitic massacre was committed in 1506.
Here in the Church of Sao Domingo, I have some "strange" sensations, which I had not had since our trip to Israel and Palestine and that I usually have in some places that give off a lot of energy. fear, that does not make me go back, but move forward, but it does not stop reminding me that at some point, this place experienced a situation that caused a terrible panic, which still rumbles between its walls.

Sao Domingo Church

After this visit, we continue to the Restauradores Square, before passing through the Rossio Station, just in front of where we had dinner yesterday.
Without realizing it, it is after 5 p.m. and we have almost completed our second day of trip to Lisbon.
From here we go to the famous restaurant Casa do Alentejo where after having a look inside, we return on our feet to continue towards the Avenida da Libertade where we take a walk, somewhat faster than usual because the cold starts to make a dent in our bodies

Facade of Casa do Alentejo

Alentejo House

Interior of Casa do Alentejo

After a while we return to the Rossio Station and make a stop at the Starbucks, to have a coffee and a cappuccino for 4.10 euros, much cheaper than in other places in the world! 😉
It's almost 7 in the afternoon when we get back on track and first of all we recharge the transport cards for 6 euros each for 24 hours more in Rossio and continue to the tram stop 28 to go to the Rua Graça to Listen to fados.

Lisbon tram

At this point we have to say that we have been recommended a multitude of places to listen to them, but one of the things we had very clear is that we wanted to get away from the classic dinner-show and we could not come better with a recommendation that made us a neighborhood tavern, where you can have a drink and see the neighborhood neighbors start up without more weekends ...
We have serious doubts in "discovering" this site, but if we did not we would be depriving people who read us and go to Lisbon to enjoy the best fados of Lisbon.
The place is A Tasca do Jaime and you can find it right in front of the Rua Graça stop, Tram 28.

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It is a small place, with 4 or 5 tables, with very little ambition, but with an atmosphere that invades the entire street, you will find it safe.
Upon arrival at the door, we are invited to spend the locals themselves at the door having a drink.

To Tasca do Jaime

We order a plate of ham and cheese plus a coke and a beer, while we see life pass like another lisboeta ... this time in one of the most authentic places in the city ...
And after a few minutes, a man gets up, approaches and sounds a fado ... momentazo we will never forget.

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Fados at A Tasca do Jaime

They say that to understand the Portuguese spirit there is nothing like listening to fado, sad and bittersweet music that flows with great intensity.
If you ask the locals what fado means, you will always get different answers. And rightly so, the more one hears, the more one realizes its diversity.
As one wise Fadist said: "Fado is like life itself: happiness, sadness, poetry and history."

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Fados at A Tasca do Jaime

We will never regret having decided to go to this Graça tavern, where we have been able to enjoy one of the best evenings we remember.

It's after 10 at night and we return to This is Lisbon Hostel, getting lost in the streets of Graça, until we reach Alfama, with our soul full of fados ...